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Triking Alaska's
Dalton Highway
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April 2021
01 April 2021
Waking to the alarm at 5.30am I almost rolled over and went back to sleep, but, I got up and headed off on my own through the pre dawn light. I was heading back to Rocky Creek for a sunrise photograph shoot.
Driving along the hilly, windy road in the dark was an interesting experience, and thankfully the only critter that tried to die in front of me was a fox, who just made it across the road in time.
I arrived at Rocky Creek to find the rocky, dirt track in flowing with some water from the nearby area. At the end of the 100m track is a small turnaround area and a spot to camp in, and where I found a small whiz bang bus parked in the prime position. I parked up nearby and waited about 15 minutes for the sun to lighten the sky a little before heading down onto the rocks.
As the sun rose more and more the results of the water coming down and flooding the valley could be seen and the damage very evident. Trees that were standing on the rocks in the middle of the creek were now flat on the ground or gone. The bush along the side of the creek was all washed out and the place looked rather, washed out (pun intended). I got my shots and some I didn't plan on, and even flew the drone before heading back to Bingara.
I'll put some shots up once I develop them, and of course they will eventually come out in a photography video on my channel.
Happy Hour was a great time and then it was time for something to eat and another pleasant night in camp.
02 April 2021
A quiet day today, but an interesting one nonetheless. I had a good chat with Alan about his self made lithium battery project, and of course inspected his work. Alan and Kay's 5th wheel is a tad larger than ours, and so he has the roof space to put 2000w of solar panels up there to feed his electrical needs.
With 2000w of solar input he has made a lithium battery bank that not only balances itself, has four individual 200aHr cells and produces enough power for him to run 240v inside the van through a 2,500w inverter. With a normal house fridge, split system air conditioner, large tv, satellite dish and numerous other 240 volt uses, their home on wheels is powered like a bricks and mortar home.
Of course another happy hour that afternoon with everyone was another great time.
03 April 2021
We hooked up this morning and after saying our farewells, pulled out of camp and hit the road. Passing through some very nice, green, undulating countryside until we landed in the showgrounds at Boggabri, and settled in for the night after a sunset to die for. If only I had been at Rocky Creek!
04 April 2021
After a very peaceful night we again packed up and headed off, this time to Gilgandra. Nothing too flash or interesting to talk about, with the exception of a road that turned to dirt, and got rougher and rougher as we went, and all to save about 30 km's!
Arriving in town we found the Gilgandra Bowls Club we parked up on the grass (not the green itself) near the carpark, and settled in, only to be joined by another caravan, a car and tent, a 4x4 with a roof top tent, and a van.
The bowls club offers this free camp to travellers and in turn they often buy a drink at the bar, or order a takeaway from the club's Chinese Restaurant.
05 April 2021
Our camp was next to the Newell Highway, and despite that and the trucks that pass along it, it was a quiet night. Well, quiet once the kids and the families that were playing on the green had gone home.
We hit the highway and made our way towards Nyngan, via the roads that are littered with the squashed carcasses of the recent mouse plague, and onto the cheap fuel at Nevertire. From there is was a simple drive to a gravel pit just before the Florida Rest Area some 60 km's short of Cobar.
We have been doing some larger than normal days as we want to get to South Australia and then slow down with a trip either through the Flinders Ranges, or the Eyre Peninsular, or both! And with that in mind we applied for a Cross Border Pass into South Australia, and were almost instantly approved.
Slowing down in SA and having a look around for a few weeks will also ensure we will fall on the good side of our application to re-enter Western Australia. As long as we don't come down with any COVID symptoms, and SA stays free of community transmission of COVID, and WA still classes where we have been as "Very Low Risk". But even then, it will depend on how our application is assessed, and what happens at the SA/WA Border when we get there. Welcome to the new normal for travel in Australia, especially for us nomads!
06 April 2021
Being the only campers in the gravel pit was nice, and we spent a very quiet night under a brilliant milky way filled sky. Back on the road it was not long before we arrived in Cobar. A stop in the main street and then a fuel top up and we were on our way. Passing through some very mundane countryside we pulled up at the MacCullochs Range Rest Area just on lunchtime, and after 257km's.
We had the place to ourselves as far as camping spots were concerned, so just grabbed the same spot as we had the last time we stayed here, and settled in for the rest of the day.
07 April 2021
Nothing much to note overnight. A couple of campers in and a few trucks on the other side of the road. We were up early and made our way into Wilcannia and a look at the now rapidly flowing Darling River. We were going to stop for fuel but a check of Fuel Spy showed the price 10c a litre cheaper at Little Topar, and as that was our intended stop for the day, we continued on.
Unfortunately for us, we stopped a little too long at the Wilcannia Dump Point, and a 4.3m wide load got ahead of us. The load itself moved along and was of no issue to us, as at 90km/h we were staying well behind and interrupted, but, the pilot vehicle telling oncoming traffic about the wide load on the UHF became a real pain to the ears!
We arrived at Little Topar Roadhouse to find lots of caravans in the yard, but none near the fuel pumps. So, pulling up to the pump and looking to see if we had somehow jumped our place in the line up, and with no response from anyone, we fuelled up. We also saved a foreigner from putting Ad-Blue in his tank as he thought that it was unleaded!
Fuelled up we moved over to the small gravel parking area next to the roadhouse and after selecting the best spot for us, settled in for the rest of the day. Roadhouse chips, potato cake and dim sims for lunch sorted out our junk food desires for lunch.
08 April 2021
So after a peaceful night at Little Topar, we were up early again and made our way into Broken Hill before breakfast, and it was nice having the sun behind us as we made our way through the early morning light.
We arrived in town early and found a parking spot near the shops. Our requirements were pretty simple.Two new house batteries (our other one had died back in Bingara and was not holding charge overnight courtesy of our fridge using plenty of power when the weather is hot. One of the drawbacks of an electric only, compressor fridge. We had 1 x 100aHr battery but opted for two 105aHr new ones.
So while I obtained the batteries, Joanne went food shopping and then we made our way out of town, crossed the border into South Australia and eventually stopped at the Wonarra Creek Rest Area some 11 km's East of the small town of Manor Hill. Being between the highway and the railway, this rest area was a bit of a gamble for peace and quiet, but you never know if you don't try it. And we were not the only ones, a small pop top caravan also tried their luck.
09 April 2021
Well our gamble with the rest area worked out okay. The highway went quiet and was of no issue during the night and the railway, after two or three trains also went quiet. Joanne telling me that one train went through during the night, but it wasn't noisy enough to wake me up, and she said she barely heard it.
Battling a strongish port quarter wind we passed Manor Hill and then crossed the open plains until the ranges lessened the wind's impact. Arriving in the small town of Yunta we fuelled up and even filled two jerry cans for our trip off road.
Airing down and leaving Yunta we were headed off road along a road we have traveled before, heading for the North Flinders Ranges, Lake Frome, then across to Blinman for another look, and hopefully another camp in Parachilna Gorge.
Not far up the dirt we came to the ruins at the Waukaringa Goldfields. With only a couple of stone buildings by the roadside, one of which was the hotel, and the mine further up the hill. We pulled in to find two other campers in there, one of which was a family who were enjoying their exploration of the old buildings, the other having unhitched their van and headed up to the old mine for a look.
The old hotel (foreground).
It's seen better days.
Unfortunately some mental giants have seen fit to leave their mark on this old building.
Waukaringa. A chimney can just be seen at the old mine up on the hill.
Not sure what the building on the left was.
Once someone's pride and joy, now just a target for shooters, this old wreck sits just behind the building near the road.
We enjoyed morning tea and a flight with the drone before heading on some more. The road going from open flat plain to dry creek crossings and through small ranges, our progress seen from the air by the large plume of dust we were leaving behind, and only reducing when we slowed for creek crossings, grids and the frequent dips.
Dusty travel in the outback.
Just one of many grids that are used to separate stations out here.
Not being sure where we were going to camp we just kept on going. We stopped for lunch and then continued on. Stopping for a look at Lake Frome courtesy of the drone at full legal height. We couldn't get out to the lake proper because there is no road out to it except for a station track.
Lake Frome and a station track out to it.
Arriving at the turnoff near the Teetree Outstation we climbed up and through the range and Wearing Gorge before pulling in to the Wearing Ruins. A small two or three roomed stone building that has seen better days, and is no longer habitable. We have been here before and so decided that after 301 kilometres for the day, it would make a great campsite.
The Wearing Ruins and the road we came up through the range on.
The Wearing Ruins. Our rig at our campsite can be seen top left.
The Wearing Ruins from above.
Our campsite just 100m from the ruins and looking toward to range in the background.
So before the sun began to set there was the obligatory exploration and photographic opportunities and then settling in for the night. The outback silence deafening.
10 April 2021
After some rain drops on the roof overnight, we were up early to catch the sun as it hit the stone ramparts of the nearby range it was a great time to be up enjoying the morning and getting some photographs, except for the multitude of buzzing black flies, their numbers increasing as the sun rose, and requiring a fly net to maintain one's sanity.
With such a big day yesterday, and such a beautiful spot to be, we decided to take the day off, and to just catch up on a few things, so after a nice cooked breakfast, we did exactly that.
The temperature has also dropped a fair bit today, and a cold Southerly wind that increased in strength through the day kept it that way, but the sun was just magnificent and warm when out of the wind.
11 April 2021
Waking to a cool morning, some moisture in the air and a cloud bank coming over it was time for one last sunrise shoot before heading off again. Of course the sky over the ranges was clear and the cloud only arrived after I had packed up, but I got some shots anyway.
We packed up and headed off along the corrugated road, heading for the turn off to Mount Chambers Gorge, and it wasn't long before we were there. Ahead of us lay 9 kilometres of narrow, corrugated, winding road that made it's way along the banks and the riverbed itself. Left and right,up and down, we were enjoying this little off road adventure as we passed over the rocks and shale of the riverbed.
Passing the first of four campsites in the area, we soon came to a drop down into the river that we could not negotiate with the 5th wheeler on the back. No matter which way we approached the drop off, as soon as our front wheels got half way down, the rear of the ute was just about to touch the underside of the 5er. One of the drawbacks of this type of towing arrangement, especially as I had lowered the hitch by two inches recently to bring the nose down some. And, to add insult to injury, I reckon that two inches was all we needed to get through. I guess we could have unhitched and readjusted the hitch itself to gain those two inches, but it was easier to just reverse about 100m and park in the campsite, unhitch and then take the ute on the additional 2 kilometres to the end of the gorge, and the other campsites. And, another insult to injury, there was a caravan parked at the end in one of the campsites! Oh well. Atleast we got there in the end, and we didn't damage anything except for our pride.
We spent a few hours walking around the riverbed, checking out the rather mundane rock art and getting some midday photographic practice. Heading back we reconnected the rig and moved it into the camp spot proper then settled in for the afternoon, enjoying the absolute peace and quiet, the bird song and the sunshine, with a total of 25 kilometres traveled today.
Mt Chambers Gorge (from the end) with MT Chambers top left.
Our campsite and where we left the house to go exploring up to the gorge.
Mt Chambers (and other campsites) at the end of the road.
12 April 2021
A very peaceful night in the bush and we were up early, grabbing a photo of the odd couple, small two tree's right next to our camp before heading off along the riverbed track to the open ground and breakfast looking over the ranges that appeared to be all around us.
The Odd Couple
Breakfast and some more photographs over it was time to get moving towards Blinman. Passing through some very wide but dry creek or riverbeds that were dotted with magnificent gum tree's, we were keeping an eye on the ever changing light along the Jubilee Range. Then before we knew it we were climbing a range and spied as we did so, one of the most magnificent views we have seen. Framed by the V of two parts of the range we were driving through was a vista of jagged rocks, forced into shape by nature, but rather than describe it, I'll post that picture here.
So after descending the range we turned around at the Eregunda Creek and went back up, parked in a small pull over at the top and made some photographs of the view, and even flew the drone over it. Of course all of this will be in an up coming video on my youtube channel.
Popping up over the hill in front of the take off spot, this was the view of Eregunda Creek as it makes it's way through the range
A closer view of that range and vista.
Range on Wirrealpa Station
After having feasted our eyes on this magnificent place we turned around and descended the range again, and some 30 kilometres later came into the small historic settlement town of Blinman. Having been here before we drove through town and then stopped to discuss which way we would go. We had the choice of the main Parachilna Gorge Road (which we have traveled before) or the Glass Gorge Road. So having been down one, we decided to take the other, despite the signs saying 30 km's of narrow winding road.
Well, the Glass Gorge road began quite nicely, wide enough to pass another vehicle and with views of the surrounding, pink and orange coloured rock and soil, and covered in a native pine, all of which resembled the area around Sedona in Arizona USA.
The further we went the more we descended, the more we descended the narrower and more winding the road became, and passing someone here would meant someone reversing to a wider spot if one could be found for the other to pass. Glass Gorge itself was nothing fabulous that we could see, and we wondered how it got it's name. Glassy looking rocks perhaps?
Out of the gorge we were back into open country and climbing a little before the road became narrow again as it descended the hill following what, judging by the rocks, gravel and shale could only be a creekbed as it wound it's way down the hill to the main riverbed on the main Parachilna Gorge Road.
We made our way back towards Blinman to try and get a spot where we have camped before at the Head of the Heysen Trail. But the place was not as we remembered it and we found it hard to level off, so headed back to a large camping area where the Glass Gorge Road came out. Here we found a good spot and settled in next to the wide but dry riverbed and surrounded by beautiful trees and large, pink and orange hills and mountains.
Photography was again on the cards and after a walk along the riverbed there was time to climb a hill opposite our campsite to investigate the views. Ding went the phone as it managed to receive a text message with the smallest of a sniff of a signal. A trip back up the hill for sunset and hoping for the last of the days light on the magnificent mountain top was in order, and so that became not only the photographic spot for the day, but also the exercise for the day as well.
Last Light
13 April 2021
Waking to a coolish morning and before the sun was up, having noticed clouds in the sky, I made the decision to quickly get dressed, grab the camera bag and tripod and head up that bloody hill once more. Maybe the first light of the day would catch not only the clouds, but the mountain top as well.
Huffing and puffing my way to the top I arrived to find the sky beginning to light up, but not in the direction I wanted. Grabbing a few shots that might look good I settled in to see if the sun would illuminate the mountain top as it rose above the cloud bank. And it did!
First light on the mountain was very brief, but with the shot in the bag, it was time to head down the hill again for breakfast and the days travel. Breakfast over we were packed up and heading out, wondering if we should really stay another day, but with strong winds and dust storms forecast we decided that moving would be a good idea. And as it turned out, it was.
Coming out of the range and into flat, open country we made the short trip to the highway at Parachilna and stopped to air the tyres back up to highway pressures. Then it was the short ish of journeys into Hawker for the dump point but most of the way into town we could see the dust storms gathering and strengthening, and our intended camp at the lookout was not going to be a good one, so rather than dump the toilet in town and then head back the 10 km's to the lookout, we just went to the caravan park instead, watching the nearby ranges disappear in the huge dust storm that came through with 60 km/h winds.
Clothes washing, catching up on the world via the Internet, which took a while after 5 days off grid, and good long showers for us both meant our stay went quickly. We also registered and put our trip into the G2G Pass for our request for entry back into Western Australia. WA is the strictest of all the Sates and Territories with regards to border closures and COVID, and so, for the second time this whole trip, we were on a time limit, and hating every bit of it.
14 April 2021
Yesterdays dust storms had mostly passed by the time we awoke, and the world was looking a bit better of a place. We packed up but before we could head out we had to change a tyre on the house. Somewhere we had picked up a nail and the tyre was dead flat. A quick tyre change and we headed out towards the pleasant looking town of Quorn where we fuelled up at a back street fuel company and saved a bit of money compared to the other bowser in town.
Leaving Quorn behind we made our way to and through Port Augusta, not stopping in town again like the trip through last time. We continued onto the fabulous RV camp at Kimba. Finding one of the last good spots we settled in and then watched plenty of others come in, go around and then squeeze between other rigs to claim a spot for the night.
Tyre changing was today's rig maintenance as one of the other house tyres had developed some damage to the tread, so after second tyre change (it's a good job we have two spares for the house) we settled in for the night, and by morning there were 34 rigs and 7 motorbike riders with tents in residence. Yes, the travellers are on the move again!
15 April 2021
After a very peaceful night we awoke a cloudy day and many of the rigs around us packing up and heading out, and we were not far behind them. Wanting to get near to Ceduna so as to make an easier trip to the Bunda Cliffs on the Nullarbor for some intended astrophotography in a few days time we put in a big day, and after 299 km's we eventually pulled up in a large borrow pit just 20km's East of Ceduna.
16 April 2021
Our borrow pit camp was typically quiet and enjoyable, and we had it all to ourselves. Packing up this morning we made the short trip into Ceduna. Picking up fuel and food before heading to the dump point to find it blocked. Thankfully there was an older one just at the back of the new one and we were able to use that. Water is not available at the dump point anymore but there is a paid water facility just up the road. This facility is excellent and you can get 150 litres for just $1. Of course if the green light is on because someone else has filled up and there is still credit available, you can get that for free.
So with most things topped up we were ready to head across the paddock once more. Leaving Ceduna we made our way to Nundroo where, as we usually do, we topped up our fuel and headed off again until we stopped at Yalata.
The old roadhouse is gone now, but we stopped to check out the new signs that are there, and we learnt a few things. The old roadhouse was in fact the old Officers Mess from Maralinga and was moved there in the 1950's. It was closed in 2006 because of structural problems and demolished by the Yalata Community and the Australian Army in 2018.
Moving on we eventually arrived at White Well, the free camp at the old stone well that was later on converted and became the ticket office for the Head of the Bight, and is now just a room available to those who use the parking area.
Three other campers came in and we all spent a quiet, but slightly windy night away from the road.
17 April 2021
Waking to a cold foggy morning there was time for some photography before we headed off once more, this time finding a fabulous spot on the Bunda Cliffs.
A foggy sunrise at the Head of the Bight.
Taking a dirt track off the highway and through the dunes, we arrived at a very large limestone rock area with plenty of places to park up and enjoy the views along the coastline or settle back in the dunes away from the wind and the edge. Of course we were eventually joined by a number of others, and we managed some afternoon and sunset photography before spending a quiet night, the silence only broken by the boom of huge waves hitting the cliff face some 80 metres below us.
Waves hitting the Bunda Cliffs. I measured the cliff height with the drone and that wave is around 30-35m high.
18 April 2021
Booming water hitting the cliffs and a sea mist were what we awoke to. Getting up to enjoy and photograph the sunrise we could see the cold air from atop the cliffs heading towards the edge of the cliffs and flowing over down to the warmer air on the ocean. It was an amazing sight and we are wondering if our photographs and video would even pay the sight justice.
The cold air flowing off the land and over the edge of the cliff as the sun begins to rise.
With the sun well and truly up it was time for breakfast and to head off to the WA Border, G2G Pass in hand, and wondering what we would encounter.
Arriving at the border we were in the que until our turn eventually came. The young Policewoman who came up to our vehicle noted down our rego on here phone then after a brief, pleasant conversation about where she came from, how long she had been there and how she was enjoying it, she scanned our G2G Passes twice, took down our license numbers and, as we had Qld number plates, asked when we were last in Qld. She then requested proof of where we had been since 1st April and we were able to produce a receipt from Moree which satisfied proof. Entry to WA granted we moved up to the Quarantine Inspector who check all the outside boxes on the 5er and the fridge inside and we were on our way. The whole process taking us about 30 minutes or so and we were, thankfully and with a minimum of fuss, back in WA.
Dropping down the escarpment at Eucla we traversed the Roe Plain, stopping at Mundrabilla for fuel as we always do, and morning tea. We also enjoyed a chat with a family who were on a 14 week adventure. They had left Sydney a week ago and were going like a cut cat to get to WA before they slow down and see as much of that as they can before going like mad to get home again.
Another quiet stretch from Mundrabilla before we climbed back up the escarpment and found a nice campsite at the Madura Pass Lookout.
Thinking we were going to be the only campers in, we were joined by a couple in a four wheel drive and a roof top tent just on dark. They parked about 50m from us but were certainly not a problem.
19 April 2021
Waking to a NW head/side wind we packed up and headed off once more. The highway was very quiet again and apart from a chat with a truckie carting what looked like a rocket (it was a large 30 metre long milk tank for a dairy in Harvey WA) the trip was quiet and uneventful, except for the fuel consumption with that headwind.
Passing our gravel pit campsite and then 10km's later Cocklebiddy, we made our way to Caiguna, checking out and noting a great gravel pit less than 10km's from Caiguna. Before long it was time to pull in and go out the back of the Baxter Rest Area. Right out the back is a nice gravel area which is well away from the road, is clean underfoot and where not too many people go out to. We pulled in, found ourselves a spot and left the headwind to it's own devices.
20 April 2021
Our down the back of the rest area spot last night was a great one, and one we will no doubt visit again when we come this way. Mind you, we spied a few other good gravel pits this morning as we made our way to Norseman, so maybe we will try one of those instead.
The going was quite a bit easier this morning with little to no wind, and after making it to Balladonia we topped up with fuel and headed out once more. The Bright orange trunks of the tree's causing us to think about stopping for photo's, but, we wanted to get to town, so didn't stop.
Arriving in Norseman we topped up the fuel once more, filled up with water at the old Tourist Information Centre, did some food shopping and then make our way to the RV Free Camp and set up. Just another day on the road, and just another step closer to the big smoke.
23 April 2021
The free camp in Norseman was excellent, despite someone in a small houseboat plonking themselves in the corner near and almost on top of us. They got in late and wanted the last of the sun for some reason, the wife apologising profusely for blocking the sun to my external solar panel because hubby was an idiot. Good job the panel was only topping up our spare battery.
We awoke to a full RV park and eventually set off across the dirt to Hyden, passing lots of skeleton trees along the way courtesy of the recent fires. The view of the tall white skeletons of what were beautiful trees was quite stark and there were thoughts of stopping for a photo, but we didn't. We kept moving on the billiard table topped dirt road, passing a few vehicles and only one mining truck.
Arriving in Hyden we stopped for lunch and to air up again before making our way to a nice borrow pit just out of town for what turned out to be a peaceful night.
Next morning we made our way to Bruce Rock and the CBH Wheat Bin where we found all the grain that we had put in last harvest, still there. Weighing the rig and then washing it were in order and after a chat with the guys repairing the roof on the G Type storage we left, eventually pulling up in the RV Park at Brookton. Being first in we grabbed the best spot and settled in. Surprisingly only one other rig came in, but then left, so we had the place to ourselves for the whole night.
A peaceful and uneventful night in Brookton we made our way to family South of Perth, and straight into a three day lock down courtesy of a recent COVID outbreak in the City. Straight out of freedom into lock down was not in the plans, but it is what it is, and it could be worse. So now we wait for the lock down to end, or be extended, to see what happens next.
Mark Twain once said "...years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do that by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - and so we will.
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